Aquaplast Mask

(Photo instructions below)

If you have already made a papier mache mask and it is dry on the clay, as long as there are no big undercuts, it is possible to take several Aquaplast masks from that same form.
Sprinkle flour or other powder generously on the paper mask so the Aquaplast doesn’t stick. Or cover with plastic wrap.
It is also possible to do this directly on the Vaseline covered clay.

  • Heat the Aquaplast in boiling water until it goes clear.
  • Using a large pot or pan on the stove is best but pouring boiling water over the material can also work provided you have enough water.
  • Stretch Aquaplast over the mask form.
  • With a friend or two, begin pressing the warm plastic into the features of the face with your fingers. It may help to use a knife or spoon for edges, lines, etc.
  • Work quickly as it begins to cool and harden immediately.
  • Hold down areas that bounce back.
  • Avoid trapping air bubbles.
  • Make sure edges are not too thick as they will be difficult to trim.
  • Don’t worry about mistakes like pinches and folds too much as they can often be the best part of the mask.
  • If you don’t get enough coverage, it is possible to heat with a hair dryer and re-form smaller areas. This is difficult however because thin areas heat up much quicker that thick ones and can lose the shape they had.
  • Continue with trimming, cutting holes, etc as with papier mache.
  • Note – paint does not sick so well as plastic is an oil product. Sanding the surface seems to help.
Aquaplast® – Where to find it

There are medical supply distributors in Canada, USA and UK.
The one I know is called Patterson Medical. (In 2017 it will change to Performance Health).
In Europe it is more difficult as they only sell to pharmacies and healthcare professionals.
Once on the site got to “splinting” then Rolyan® brands, then Aquaplast® ProDrape™-T
The thickness you want is either 2.4 or 3.2mm.
You can buy them in large sheets or pieces of: 15X23cm.
The smaller pieces are easier to ship and handle.
Get white Aquaplast® as it is the only one that goes clear when ready to use (then slowly back to white as it cools), which is very helpful.

The Material: White Aquaplast turns clear when working temperature is reached then back to white when cooled/hardened. Colored Aquaplast doesn’t have this feature.
Aqua-boil: Trim to fit pot. Don’t let plastic stick. Remove with tongs.
Aquaplast Overlay: Stretch the plastic to fit the size of the mask. Powder generously over papier mache or cover with thin cling wrap. Lightly vaseline if working on clay.
Feature Press: This is a balance between holding features in as Aquaplast cools while avoiding air capture and bubbling. Two or three people are usually necessary as the material pops back up except just before hardened.
Edges and Holes: Use fingers to push in nose/eye holes and use tools for edges, crevices and wrinkles.
Removal: Once hard, pull off Aquaplast. You might need to slide tools under to release stuck areas. Work carefully if you would like to make more from the same mould.


Trim: Strong clippers are handy to have. If you don’t have any, avoid any thik or folded parts of the Aquaplast.
Hole Chop: Cut across from the inside in once slice if possible for nose and eye holes.